How To Grow Medical Marijuana by Billy Budd

How to Become a Master Grower

*** Read Secrets of the Pink Kush to learn how to grow and breed killer cannabis strains and learn many other previously unknown facts about nature and giants (tetraploid humans).

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How to Grow High Quality Medical Grade Marijuana

  • Do not use Sea of Green or Hydroponic or Aeroponic methods. These methods will not produce high quality finished product. These methods are employed by purely profit motivated individuals. Sea of Green is also known as Fools Gold because it looks good but is nowhere near as potent as a full grown plant which has the properly developed hormone levels.
  • Grow in soil. Marijuana grown in hydroponic or aeroponic systems are much weaker in taste and strength. HP Promix, earthworm castings and coco peat 6:1:1. You can change the ratios but this is more economical. Ideally you should add some charcoal to the mix to enhance the micro-organisms. Use citric acid (orange juice or lemon juice) to lower the PH in your nutrient solution instead of other PH down methods. This helps facilitate the Krebs cycle/Citric Acid cycle and enhances the uptake of nutrients.
  • Eliminate spider mites
  • Use garbage cans with holes drilled or containers at least 20 gallons. The bigger the better, the faster and healthier the plant will grow.
  • Keep the roots warm (can use enzymes) and the air temperature cold.
  • Grow plants as large as possible. You must vegetate for at least 2 months from clones and preferably 3 months. This means a 5 month grow cycle.
  • Keep the lights about an elbow length away and lower when they are fully grown. Further away and higher when smaller.
  • Use clones from seeded mother plants only. Growing from seeds is the best but is impractical. I recommend using F1 hybrid seeds, sexing them, keeping the seeded mothers and then cloning from these mother plants. Create new mother plants every 12-18 months for optimum results. Growing an F1 hybrid will provide a euphoria as well as pain relief effect. Pure sativas will not provide the correct pain relief and pure indicas get very tiresome and seem to lose their effect after repeated use. An F1 hybrid is a much more potent plant than either a pure sativa or pure indica or a mixed cross of F2 or beyond. This is due to unique feature of divergent crosses called Heterosis. This is often called hybrid vigour. It means a stronger growing plant with higher THC levels than either parent. Tolerance is harder to build up with higher THC and lower CBD levels. Pure sativas are too expensive to grow due to poor yields and much longer flowering times. When hybrids are bred to create an F2 or F3, etc. cross, they will generate weaker strains as the heterosis is lost.
  • Ensure that your plants are healthy before you flip them to flowering. You can fix a plant when it is vegatating but not once it starts to flower. All of the inherent problems will appear when the plant begins to flower. Heat stress, spider mites, powdery mildew, botrytis (bud rot) will take their toll at the end stage of flowering and your yields will be significantly reduced.
  • Use Bud Blood for the first week or two of flowering to augment hormone production. Bud Blood is basically Phosphorous and Potassium with some enzymes and hormones and will decrease the time for the plant to start flowering (hormones) and will increase the bud sites (PK).
  • Avoid too much Nitrogen before flipping as this will cause nutrient lock up visible as the claw or the hook where the leaves hook downward.
  • Use 1000 watt Metal Halide lights for vegetative growth and 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium for flowering stage.
  • Use Vitamins like SuperThrive, Carbohydrates (afer 2 weeks flowering) like AN Carbo Load (Molasses adds weight but has too much bite and heavy smoke), do not use AN Big Bud as it makes the buds bigger and fluffier and hence weaker, Nitrogen, Phospate, Pottasium, Sulphur, Calcium, Magnesium (Epsom Bath Salts).
  • Slowly increase the nutrient concentrations and avoid getting the leaves too green (too much)or too yellow (too little).
  • Spray neem oil weekly until 2 weeks flowering and then do not spray anything on the buds or get them wet.
  • Use an excellent air conditioner and de-humidifier.
  • Keep appropriate space and air flow around the plants. Your plants need excercise from the fans during the day time.
  • Use CO2. Tanks are too expensive so either use propane or natural gas burners. If you cannot afford CO2 then you could change to a high volume of air flow with normal CO2 level (quantity versus quality)
  • Allow the plants to fully flower to attain improved weight and THC concentrations.
  • Cut plant and hang upside down in dark cool area.
  • Trim plant after 7 days. You can trim it when you chop down if you prefer.
  • Dry for 2 days (no direct air but circulating around the racks) at 68% and then sweat (plastic garbage bag) for 18 hours, dry for 2 days and then sweat again for 12 hours, dry for 1 day and then bag when it snaps dry. If crispy on the outside then sweat for another 6 hours.
  • Know your strains. Warning: Tetraploids take extremely long to grow due to the doubled leaf set. These strains are best grown using Sea of Green or hydro/aeroponic, despite my earlier advice. The genetics make up for the weaker hormone levels. A diploid grown large is just as good as a tetraploid grown in Sea of Green. A tetraploid grown large is extremely potent and is significantly above the normal maximum of 25% THC levels. They are usually not economically viable to grow large. You will only get 2 crops per year if grown large but it will be KILLER. You can adjust to a continous production system where you pulling down something every month. It can take up to six months to get up and running at full capacity.